When is Tension Really the Problem?
We hear it all the time. An all-knowing husband brings in his wife’s sewing machine, plops it on the service counter and announces, “The tension is off.”
“OK, sure, mister, of course.”
Actually, tension is not usually the problem with most machines.
It could be the fact that this sewing machine’s insides have never seen the light of day in its entire 10-30 year life time. No, that could not be it.
Or the fact that the needle looks like the original one that came with the machine.
And it sure couldn’t be that the thread’s price tag says 5-cents. No, that could not be it at all!
Tension is usually not the problem. If it has been eons since a machine has been professionally serviced, there are usually other issues that prevent the machine from stitching a perfectly balanced stitch. Over time the combination of dust, lint and ancient oil begin to congeal into nasty, golden-yellow goo. Gears begin to freeze up and stiffen. Belts become brittle. Old threads left from a thread jam starts to jellify with the golden-yellow goo. And the packed lint from the last flannel project appears to be growing eyes and horns! We then wonder why our lovely machine growls at us when we try to sew. The tension must be off!
So when is tension really the problem? The tension needs to be adjusted only when the machine:
Has had new needle of the proper size and point style inserted.
The leftover residue from the last sewing project has been removed.
Is threaded correctly with quality thread, passing correctly through all the thread guides.
The bobbin is wound properly, placed in the holder and spins the right direction
A drop of oil has been added to the hook area (when applicable).
The correct presser foot is attached for the technique and fabric.
Only then should we look to see if the tension needs to be adjusted.
Perfect tension does exist! When our service technicians completely clean, adjust and check every working part of a sewing machine, their final test is the tension setting. Want to try their tension test on your own machine?
1. Place a COLORED spool of quality thread such as Mettler polyester in the needle.
2. Wind a bobbin with WHITE thread of the same brand.
3. Select a zigzag stitch set to the widest stitch width and longest stitch length the machine allows.
4. Sew on two layers of medium to heavy weight WHITE fabric.
At this extreme zigzag setting, look on the back side for a small, tiny dot of the top colored thread at each point of the zigzag. If no top thread shows on the back side, loosen (smaller number) the top tension. If too much top thread pulls to the back side, tighten (higher number) the top tension. Continue to adjust the tension until it is perfect.
(See Sara’s Tip “A Sewing Machine Technician’s Check List” for a complete list of everything that is checked during a regular service).
Sewing machines around the world beg for basic attention. No matter if they live in closets, in cabinets, and beautiful sewing studios, they all need the love of a professional cleaning from time to time. Our lawns get fertilized; our cars receive regular oil changes; why don’t we take care of our sewing machines? If we expect them to run for us when we need to mend a pair of blue jeans, we must give them a fighting chance.
A true sewer knows that to have successful sewing results, we must take care of our equipment. Have it professionally cleaned once a year. No matter what machine you have, for best results select quality thread, and change the needle for every project, or for every 4-5 bobbins.
A well cared for sewing machine is a happy sewing machine!
© 2007 SewSara, Sioux Falls, SD. All Rights Reserved.
Sew Sara’s 1st Anniversary
Sew Sara turns 1! Can you believe that there are 52 tips on this website? The Sew Sara tips started June 2006 to provide information and help to our fellow sewers. If you are new to our store, all the published tips are archived for easy reference. Want to find a topic? Type a word into the search box. Thank you for all your comments and encouragement that everyone has expressed over that past year. Â
Here is a popular tip from July 2006 that many people found helpful.
There are times when some fusible webs, interfacing, or fabric sprays will start to build up a nasty, gummy wad at the top of a sewing machine needle. And before you know it, the thread starts breaking or the machine starts to skip stitches or even both! Stop – don’t blame the sewing machine!
Sometimes it is hard to know how a new fusible web or spray will act when in contact with a metal needle. Many times you have already spent hours getting everything perfectly positioned and pressed in place and starting over is not one of your options. The solution can be a STRETCH NEEDLE! This specially coated needle cuts down the friction that often leads to the gummy build-up from these gooey fiends. Schmetz stretch needles are even color coated with a yellow top for quick visual reference.
I have often referred to these needles as a “911†needle – a great needle to always have in the sewing room in case of a sewing emergency.Try stretch needles when sewing through rubbery items such as Lycra and elastic. And my most favorite use of a stretch needle would be for sewing through Velcro! Remember getting messy, uneven stitches the last time you sewed through a piece of Velco?
A must for every sewing room, a stretch needle can solve a host of unsightly stitching problems on a variety of fabrics!
Healthy Sewing Habit – June 2007
Get together with a friend to sew with at least twice a year.
How to Get More Time to Sew
I wish we could count sewing as exercise, but I have not figured out how. I have, though, figured out how to sew for more hours once I finally do reach the sewing room! Since we always seem to be squeezing in sewing time between work, family and fun, once we start sewing we do not want to stop! You know what I am talking about…a project is coming together as you had imagined, you have not had to do any ripping, and you actually feel like you are making headway. Then it hits you – the most common sewing party killer FATIGUE!
What does this have to do with getting more time to sew? It starts with an aching back and tensed up shoulders, and before you know it your energy level starts falling as fast as an elephant on ice skates. But, the longer you can fight off fatigue, the longer you will be able to sew.
When we think of the perfect sewing room we envision the most technologically advanced sewing machine, an ideal sewing cabinet, cutting and pressing stations large enough for any project and the most complete collection of fabric and notions all in their own place. Do you see anything missing from this model sewing room? The perfect sewing chair.
I hear from many of you that use a kitchen chair or a wooden desk chair and I am saddened. My shoulders begin to tense just thinking about sitting on a solid unforgiving chair for sewing. Our bodies need the very best support when performing our favorite activity. Its time to talk about the chair we choose.
A sewing chair needs to perform to a higher standard than an office chair. An office chair is for general sitting, where as a sewing chair must support a much more rigorous workout as we sit and stand numerous times during our sewing marathons. It must withstand the constant flopping we do as we sit down with freshly presses pieces in hand. (My term for sinking in a chair quickly without using the arm rests). To handle flopping, I have discovered a chair must have some extra spring in the seat to cushion my entire body weight. The seat cushion needs to be made of high-density foam to contain optimum shape and support to keep the body balanced. Over time seat cushions that compact and deform can not offer the body the longevity needed to sit for long periods of time, again leading to fatigue.
Every time I sit to write Heirloom Creations newsletter, I am reminded how essential the proper chair is to each person. Being that I am constantly on my feet working in a retail store, I do have problems sitting in one place for any major length of time. It has nothing to do with being uncomfortable, I do have the Perfect Sewing Chair, but the fact that I like to be moving around and active.
I will never forget the first time I finished a two day straight marathon newsletter session (about 16 hours of computer work) in my new chair. For the first time, my back was not screaming for Advil. What made the biggest difference was my old chair’s seat cushion was totally flat and did not support my body correctly. The new chair’s seat was made from very firm, space age foam that is guaranteed not to compact more than 5% during its life time. A couple years later and the seat still feels as firm today as the day I brought it home.
There are many parts of a chairs anatomy that must be evaluated to insure proper fit for each person. Height, seat depth, width and style need to match each body type. Just like the perfect dress, it must make us feel good!
I have provided a few links to great articles that will further help in determining which chair is perfect for you and help understand more about proper ergonomics for sewing.
When your body is pampered and relaxed, sewing can be a satisfying stress reliever that won’t get cut short by a throbbing back or shoulder pain.
Sewing Room Setup for Healthy Sewing by The Home Sewing Association
How to Choose an Ergonomic Chair by Cornell University Ergonomics Web
Read More About Sewing Ergonomics in General
Heirloom Creations prides itself in providing The Perfect Sewing Chair designed by Ergonomic Advantage in our classroom. When selecting The Perfect Sewing Chair for your self, it is custom fit to your body type with many size options for short and tall sewers. We have all sizes of chairs in our store so you can be sure you are selecting the one best suited for you. With dozens of color choices, arm options and extra Lumbar support, these chairs can make the perfect sewing room pure heaven.
If you have purchased one of our Perfect Sewing Chairs, please add your comment to this tip and tell others why they need one too!
© 2007 SewSara, Sioux Falls, SD. All Rights Reserved.
Rotary Cutting Mat Care
As I stumbled into my sewing room the other morning, coffee in hand for a morning sewing session, I was greeted by the bright early morning sunlight. I had accidentally left the blinds open from the night before. Not thinking anything off it, I fired up the sewing machine and the computer and took a couple sips of coffee. While slowly waking up, I glanced around the room in hopes that the sewing elves had paid me a visit during the night. Instead of freshly finished projects by the midnight sewers, my eyes spotted a bold ray of sunlight creeping slowly toward my peaceful, self-healing green-goddess of rotary cutting mats. Oh – No! Not the sun! My ever faithful green shield that I slice into daily with the most dangerous of rotary blades was starting to be attacked by the silent mat-killer. I quick jumped up and moved my glorious mega green mat out of the creeping sunlight so it could continue to live its perfectly flat life it was manufactured to live.
We have all seen them, probably at a class, a warped, wrinkled, bone stiff mat that no longer will offer safe or a straight cutting surface. The cause: Direct sunlight or extreme heat or cold. The cure: Buy a new rotary cutter mat.
Should you need to purchase a new mat or upgrade or downgrade to a more suitable size, there are a few hints to help maximize its lifetime. The green self-healing mats are a true god-send. After cutting with a rotary cutter blade, the surface will heal leaving no visible cut. It is best to vary the cutting locations and not cut multiple times in the same place. These mats are made to heal from cuts from only rotary cutter blades. These mats may not heal as nice when cut into by other sharp objects. Should a very linty fabric like batting be cut, take time to remove the fibers so the mat can heal properly. Note that a mat has a harder time healing after cutting curves.
To store or transport a rotary cutter mat, always keep it flat. Even leaning the mat on its end may cause it to warp unless it is kept perfectly straight. Never roll a mat. Rolling a mat will cause the cuts to open up and the mat will crack. Avoid leaving a mat in a hot car for an extended length of time. Try to plan errands appropriately when traveling with a mat.
Should a gentle cleaning be needed to wash away a spill or dust, a diluted hand dish washing liquid will work best.
When selecting a new mat, choose a size that best suits your needs. Bigger isn’t always better! If you are not ready to buy a new mat, flip over the old one! You can use both sides!
As I watch the morning summer sun’s path change route through my new sewing room, I am very careful not to leave Mrs. Green Rotary Cutting Mat to fight the elements on her own. She now receives first class treatment and is either moved from the open window’s direct sun light or the blinds are kept closed until the sun passes us by. She will live to see another day!
© 2007 SewSara, Sioux Falls, SD. All Rights Reserved.