To-Go Sewing Kit
Are you starting to have two of some of your favorite tools? Create a to-go box of basic sewing supplies to keep packed up for going to classes. No more forgetting to take pins or a seam ripper. If you have recently been updating the quality of your tools (sharper pins, a smoother rolling rotary cutter) be careful not to frustrate yourself at a class with the less than perfect seconds. Are you starting to travel to class or retreats a lot? Maybe it is time to get a smaller sewing machine too! This way you do not have to unplug and move your regular sewing machine. Just keep the second smaller machine packed up for quick exit! Also, if a friend comes over to sew, you know you have enough supplies for two!
Items to have in you to-go box:
- 18″ x 24″ rotary cutting mat*
- 6″ or 8″ x 24″ ruler
- Rotary cutter with a new blade
- Pins
- Small scissors
- Large scissors
- Neutral color sewing thread
- Extra needles
- Extra EMPTY bobbins
- Notebook and pen
- Always check the class’s supply list for any extra items needed or recommended.
*We often see some pretty tiny rotary cutting mats come to class that are too small to work on. Unless the supply list notes that you do not need a larger size of rotary cutting mat, a 18″ x 24″ is an easy enough size to pack and will allow for larger cuts needed for some projects.
When a class supply list has Optional items listed, it is usually a good idea to have them. These are items that the instructor found useful and probably saved them time when they created the project.
If you have ever forgotten to bring your power cord to a class, it might be a good idea to purchase an extra power cord for your sewing machine. This way you never have to unplug and replug in the power cord when you get home from class! If your sewing machine has a separate power cord not integrated with the foot control, these power cords usually average about $10.
So make your Christmas list now! Don’t forget to ask for a second smaller sewing machine to take to classes…you might actually get one!
© 2007 SewSara, Sioux Falls, SD. All Rights Reserved.
Remove The Draggy Coating That Keeps The Iron From Gliding!
Starch build-up, burnt synthetics, lime deposits and melted iron-ons can coat an iron’s soleplate over time, slowing down the ironing, and making it a drag. Dirty irons can start to pick up color from the fabric dye and can transfer the color to other fabrics. Clean the iron periodically, especially if sewing and pressing light colored fabric. The best way to clean the soleplate of the iron is with a commercial hot iron cleaner.
There are iron cleaners that can remove the gummy build up in seconds and will also lubricate the plate for a smoother glide. To clean an iron’s sole plate, squeeze a liberal amount of iron cleaner onto a heavy cotton cloth such as an old terry towel. While the iron is HOT rub the soiled ironing surface with circular motions. After removing all the soil simply wipe with the clean end of the cloth. Use an iron cleaner anytime the iron does not glide along fabric smoothly.
If irons can be opened, some parts can be soaked in white vinegar over night. The removing of an iron stem when it is hot will force all remaining water from its reservoir through the sole plate of the iron dislodging the mineral deposits from the steam holes.
FOR OLDER STEAM IRONS: Mineral deposits may be removed from OLDER steam irons by filling it with a solution of equal parts white vinegar and water and letting it steam until dry. Rinse the tank with clean water, refill it and shake water through steam holes over an old piece of material. Test on old cloth before ironing. It is not advisable to try this on a NEW iron as the acidity of the vinegar may damage the iron.
Always check the owners manual for proper cleaning methods as they will variety from brand to brand. Everyone needs a tube of iron cleaner in their sewing room. Iron cleaner is available at Heirloom Creations for the next time your iron’s sole plate looks like it got in a fight with a Michelin tire and lost.
© 2007 SewSara, Sioux Falls, SD. All Rights Reserved.
Storing Your Pins
Now that you have selected your personal perfect pins (Sew Sara tip from last week), it is time to examine the easiest ways to keep the pins within reach and make them easy to pick up and return to their proper location.
Again, everyone has their favorite when it comes to the perfect pincushion. Maybe you keep Grandmother’s pincushion nearest the sewing machine in hopes that she will watch over you at your sewing machine. Or maybe your pincushion is in your favorite shape or collectible item a teacup pincushion, a pincushion shaped like your favorite animal, or maybe it is an overstuffed top of a jar of antique buttons! No matter the size or shape, it needs to be right for you!
Some pincushions consist of a large bundle of felted wool. Wool pincushions can usually hold a ton of pins and as an added bonus uses the wool’s natural lanolin to keep pins smooth and sharp.
Some people prefer to have their pincushion wrapped around their wrist so no matter where in the sewing room they move to they are never without their pins.
Now when was it that we decided that pincushions should look like a tomatoes? (I am so glad you asked)!
“People used to believe that placing a ripe tomato on the mantel when first entering a new home guaranteed future prosperity. Since tomatoes were not available year-round until recently, families moving into new homes often substituted round balls of red fabric stuffed with sawdust or sand. These balls were also used as pincushions, which explains– if you ever wondered–why your grandmother’s pincushion looked like a tomato!”
My personal favorite is a magnetic pincushion. I don’t have to aim at the pincushion for the pin to return to its home! I can just toss the pin in the general direction of the magnet and they stick, usually keeping all the pins in a perfect aligned grouping. And if I loose a pin on the floor, the magnetic pincushion is guaranteed to find it Even though computerized sewing machines have improved over the years, avoid getting the magnetic pincushions near some of the original electronic/computerized sewing machines. Check with your sewing machine dealer to determine if your sewing machine is safe from the magnetic pincushions.
If you are often finding yourself without your pins, maybe it is time to purchase an extra pincushion to keep on the ironing board or cutting table. Keep a separate pincushion (not a box of loose pins) packed with your to-go sewing kit that goes with you to classes. This way the box will not open during transportation and you will have a useful, non- frustrating place to keep pins during the class.
Making a custom pincushion only takes a little creativity and a basic understanding of normal pincushion fillers. Old fashion pincushions were often filled with sawdust and wool roving. Emery was also used and is still used today in traditional pincushions. Emery is the same material used on emery boards and fine sandpapers and is an abrasive material. When pins and needles are pushed into it, it smoothes their surfaces and helps to keep them rust- free. If you can not find emery at the hardware store, substitute a good grade of fine sand. Make an inner bag to hold the sand, wrap it with a layer of batting or fiberfill, then add the pincushion’s outer layer.
Take a look at your pincushion and ask it if it is doing its job or could it do it better. Since pinning is a fact of life in the sewing room, let’s make sure to have proper pins and the perfect pincushion!
© 2007 SewSara, Sioux Falls, SD. All Rights Reserved.
The Proper Pin
Pins are a sewer’s necessity. Mom always said, You have to pin before you sew. As a child, I hated pinning, but throughout my sewing years, I have come realize that pinning is a fact of life. For the best results, pinning is a requirement.
Selecting the right pin is a whole other story. If your pin cushion or pin box has a collection of pins that are different lengths, different colors, and different sizes, which ones do you tend to reach for? The ones that are the sharpest? The ones that push through the fabric best? Or the ones that are the straightest?
If your pin collection is mixed with different kinds of pins, it is time to sort! First, remove all the pins that are bent or dull. There is no reason to keep these around just to be frustrated! Second, determine the type of pins you personally like. Though there are different pins for different fabrics and projects, pin selection comes down to personal preference. If one pin is easier for you to handle than another, then that is the right pin for you.
There are five parts of a pin to consider: head, point, length, thickness and metal content.
Pin heads can be made of plastic, glass or with no-head at all. Glass headed pins can be ironed over without melting and are often found on higher quality pins. Plastic flower head pins are great for easy handling and do not get in the way when measuring over these pins. When hand sewing, select pins without heads for less catching of the thread.
Pin points can vary in sharpness from sharp for regular fabrics to extra sharp for finer fabrics. There are even ballpoint pins to use with knit fabrics so not to break the fibers.
Pin length varies from pin type. Pins that are ½ to ¾ in length are perfect for pining appliques or trims in place where multiple pins may need to overlap. Overlapping of longer pins would get in each others way. The most common length is between 1 to 1 1/2″ for general pining of fabrics and patterns. Quilting pins are the longest ranging between 1 1/2 to 2inches making them the best choice when pining through multiple layers including batting.
Pin thickness is important to not leave a pin hole. Using a finer needle on satins, micro-fibers and other dense fibers will leave less of a mark than with a thicker pin. Always test the pin on the fabric before pinning to be sure the pin holes will heal on their own or press out. There is nothing worse than having permanent pin holes showing after a project is completed.
Pin metal content should be checked if using pins from grandma’s sewing box. These days most quality pins are made of nickel-plated brass that will not rust. To test rust-resistance, spray fabric with salt water to see which pins rust. For safety, do not leave pins in fabric for years on end.
Specialty pins such as fork pins and T-pins have specific uses. Fork pins look like a fork tuner with double sharp points. These pins are perfect for matching plaids, strips and are great when aligning diamond shaped quilting points. T-pins are very thick and are best used on heavy upholstery fabrics. Being extra thick they will not bend while being forced through bulky fabrics.
Take a few minutes to clean out your pincushion. Group different types of pins together separating them by length or by type of head, plastic and glass. If it is time to buy some new pins finding your favorite pin might take a few purchases. My favorite pin is the Quilting Pin (Fine) by Clover. They are glass head pins that are extra long and extra fine. It is so nice not to have to hunt for the good pins, because no other pins are mixed in with them!
The moral of the story is: The next time you try to use a pin that has to be forced through the fabric, throw it out!
© 2007 SewSara, Sioux Falls, SD. All Rights Reserved.
Sewing on Paper
Taboo or kosher? The topic of sewing on paper often comes up when discussing sewing machine maintenance or needle selection. Whether we should or should not sew on paper has been out weighed by the fascination of creative uses of threads in scrapbooking, decorative note cards, clever paper gift tags, embellished gift bags and the good ol’ quilt piecing using paper piecing techniques.
Recently a tween-aged girl was dragged into the store while her mother looked at buying a new sewing machine. Obviously annoyed by the inconvenience of being seen with her mother in a sewing store of all places, she slumped down in a chair as far away as possible. Wanting her mother to not feel like she needed to rush out, I asked the daughter if by any chance she enjoyed scrapbooking. To my delight she said, YES! I quick picked up a couple pieces of cardstock paper, showed her how to access some of the decorative stitches on the nearest sewing machine and went back to help her mother. A few minutes later, I watched the daughter try out another sewing machine, pushing buttons and sewing out new stitches. By the time the mom and I were finished, the random scraps of paper had everything from rows of stitches to complete programmed names using the built in alphabets!
So is sewing on paper bad for a machine? One should take time to thoroughly clean out the bobbin case and hook area after extensive paper sewing. Also, a new needle would be in high order for the next sewing project!
Most any decorative stitch can be sewn on paper. First, select the decorative thread. Second, select the decorative stitch. When stitching on heavy paper stocks, light and airy stitches will not normally need any extra stabilizer. If the selected stitches are heavy satin stitches or numerous tiny stitches to create intricate floral details, a stabilizer would be best added underneath the paper. This will prevent the paper from being perforated or non-recognizable. If using thinner thread, a smaller needle will not leave such a large hole.
Try using a sewing machine, a large needle (16/100 or larger), and no thread in the needle or the bobbin to achieve decorative perforations in paper that can let light or another color of paper show through. These decorations can add simple yet delicate texture to any scrapbook page.
For an artistic gift idea, purchase a package of plain thank you notes. Using a decorative thread, stitch a decorative stitch along the lower edge of each thank you card. Place all cards back in the package and give as a gift!
Sewing on paper has been “legalized†in the sewing world ever since the start of paper piecing or sometimes referred to as foundation piecing. Though copy paper will work and tear away from the tiny stitches recommended for this paper piecing technique, new products such as Carol Doak’s Foundation Paper is much more suited for the sewing machine and for a much easier removal process. These 8 1/2″ x 11″ sheets of paper can be run through a copy machine or printer and sewn through with ease. Check out this paper at Carol Doaks website.
So whether doing a sewing event with the local Girl Scouts to teach them the art of sewing straight lines on paper, decorating a scrapbook page or enhancing gift cards with thread, sewing on paper with a sewing machine is just another way of expressing creativity! So, go ahead…sew on some paper today!
© 2007 SewSara, Sioux Falls, SD. All Rights Reserved.