Sticky Build-Up on Your Needle?
There are times when some fusible webs, interfacing, or fabric sprays will start to build up a nasty, gummy wad at the top of a sewing machine needle. And before you know it, the thread starts breaking or the machine starts to skip stitches or even both! Stop – don’t blame the sewing machine!
Sometimes it is hard to know how a new fusible web or spray will act when in contact with a metal needle. Many times you have already spent hours getting everything perfectly positioned and pressed in place and starting over is not one of your options. The solution can be a STRETCH NEEDLE! This specially coated needle cuts down the friction that often leads to the gummy build-up from these gooey fiends. Schmetz stretch needles are even color coated with a yellow top for quick visual reference.
I have often referred to these needles as a “911″ needle – a great needle to always have in the sewing room in case of a sewing emergency.Try stretch needles when sewing through rubbery items such as Lycra and elastic. And my most favorite use of a stretch needle would be for sewing through Velcro! Remember getting messy, uneven stitches the last time you sewed through a piece of Velco? A stretch needle will solve a host of unsightly stitching problems!
Until next week, may all your sewing be fun and all your stitches be straight!
© 2007 SewSara, Sioux Falls, SD. All Rights Reserved.
Backstitching 101
When should I backstitch? How many stitches should I take?
If you have heard yourself mumble these questions to yourself hoping someone would answer you, then read on!
Backstitching is a must anytime a seam will not have another seam intersecting it at a later time. When quilting, I will often backstitch when sewing on the final two borders. This will hold the final seam secure until the quilt is quilted. When sewing, it is proper to backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam BUT this can get a bit thick.
When sewing forward, back and then forward again the seam can be quite bulky especially on thin fabrics. To eliminate the bulk of three rows of stitching, try shortening the stitch length to 1mm or 18-20 stitches per inch for the first half inch or so of the seam. Return to the desired stitch length and continue down the seam. Repeat with the shorter stitches at the end of the seam.
If you are stuck in the habit of backstitching at the beginning and end of every seam, try starting not on the edge of the fabric but in about half inch. Immediately engage the reverse button and sew backwards towards the edge of the fabric. Then sew forward. This gives only TWO rows of stitches to remove in the unlikely event of a mistake, but will secure the seam properly.
A note for electronic and computerized sewing machine users: When these machines are perfectly tuned, the forward and reserve stitching should land in the same holes no matter when the reverse button is engaged. Our tech guys, Gary and Ryan, always check the forward and reverse balance of your machine during a basic service.
No matter if you are going forward or backward, may all your stitched be straight!
© 2007 SewSara, Sioux Falls, SD. All Rights Reserved.
Turning the Perfect Corner
With the popularity of bags, pillows and other square home decor items, forming the perfect corner can help make the project look more professional. When sewing around a bulky box shape, if using an electronic sewing machine set the needle to stop in the down position. This will first prevent any crooked seams when moving the project through the machine. Second, the needle will then be in the proper down position when it is time to pivot around the corner. Instead of turning a sharp 90 degree, try stitching up to the pivot point, turn the project 45 degrees and take one stitch. Pivot a second 45 degrees and continue stitching the second side. This extra stitch allows for more room within the corner for the bulk of the fabric to turn into. Do trim the excess corner fabric at a 45 degree angle close to the extra stitch that was previously taken. This again will help eliminate the bulk inside the corner.
© 2007 SewSara, Sioux Falls, SD. All Rights Reserved.
Pressing vs. Ironing
Ironing and pressing are often used interchangeably, but are actually two separate techniques. Ironing is the back and forth sliding motion most of us are familiar with and do regularly at home. Pressing is the placing of the iron on the fabric, holding it there, and then removing.
When working with loosely woven fabric such as tailored shirts, suits, lined garments, silks, or rayons, the act of ironing can distort the fibers. If using steam, this will move and keep the fibers in the new unwanted shape. These fabrics need gentle pressing with heat in an up and down lifting of the iron.
Pressing without distorting the fabric is a challenge for many quilters. Ironing, moving the iron back and forth, will often distort blocks, pleat seams on the front, or make seam allowances wander from side to side on the back. These common problems affect how well blocks fit together and the overall look of the quilt.
The most common pressing technique is to lay the seam to be pressed on the ironing board with the darkest color on top (or the fabric that the seam will be pressed towards). Use a dry iron to set the seam placing the iron directly down on top of the unopened seam. Lift the top fabric and let fall over the top of the seam allowance. Avoid pulling the fabric too far back or the seam allowance will flip toward the bottom fabric. Move the iron sideways along the bottom fabric toward the seam, letting the edge of the iron push the top fabric into place.
To steam or not to steam? Steam does have a place in the quilter’s world. A dry iron is best used during the construction of blocks. To help set the seams, blocks, sashings and borders, steam the quilt top at the every end, letting the quilt completely dry and cool before moving. Some quilters will spray a light coating of spray starch during the final pressing using a dry iron.
© 2007 SewSara, Sioux Falls, SD. All Rights Reserved.
Gravity
With the popularity of HGTV, home makeovers, and the availability of high-end home decor fabrics, sewers are letting their imagines run wild. Once the style and fabrics have selected, now comes the sometimes massive effort of maneuvering heavy or bulky fabrics through the sewing machine or serger. Before getting started, take a few minutes to make room for working on these larger projects. Clearing extra space to the left of the sewing machine will help when tackling a monster task such as curtains or a duvet cover. If needed, position extra tables close to your sewing area to help support the weight of the project. If bulky fabrics hang off the edge of a work area, the feeding of the fabric through the sewing machine may become uneven. If the project is gigantic, request the help of another person while you concentrate on keeping the seams straight.
© 2007 SewSara, Sioux Falls, SD. All Rights Reserved.